The Best Trek to Machu Picchu

Among the most coveted experiences for travel in Peru is the one and only Machu Picchu. Sitting high in the Andes with almost mystical significance, trekking to Machu Picchu was a must see while we were in Peru. However, there were many options for visiting the ancient Incan City. While the more traditional Inca Trail had more historical significance, treks can sell out months in advance and are super expensive. The other option we found was to go on the five-day Salkantay Trek, which provides unparalleled views of Mount Salkantay and Humantay Lagoon, and (most importantly for us) is substantially less expensive. Plus, we were able to book it upon our arrival in Cusco. We later learned that this trek is often preferred by the guides because of the gorgeous views and far fewer tourists.

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

Preparing for the Salkantay Trek               

Before we dive into the actual trek, let’s discuss preparation. Parts of this trek reach over 13000 feet in elevation (~4,000 meters for our non-American friends), and we highly recommend acclimating in Cusco for a few days before heading out. Obviously, everyone will react differently, but we spent a full week in Cusco before heading out and still felt the elevation.

Another thing that is very important to this trek is climate-specific gear. The weather in the Andes is infamously unpredictable and you don’t want to get caught unawares. Rain gear is a must, so make sure you have a raincoat and/or poncho. It can also get extremely cold at night so be sure you bring some extra layers, such as synthetic base layers, sweatshirts, hats, gloves, and warm socks. It is also a good idea to bring a flashlight or headlamp for navigating camp after the sun goes down.

Okay, let’s get to the good stuff, shall we?

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

Day: 1

Most companies taking groups on the Salkantay Trek leave Cusco at around 4:30 AM. We met our guide in the Plaza de Armas and followed him a couple of blocks to where our bus was waiting. After a two-and-a-half-hour drive through the mountains surrounding Cusco, we arrived in a town called Mollepata for a quick breakfast before hopping back on the bus and continuing another hour-and-a-half to where we would begin our trek.

Upon arriving at our starting point, everyone on the bus was split into groups and a team name was selected (shout out to our Sexy Llamas crew!!). This also included our cooks and porters who would be leading the horses with all our baggage over the Salkantay pass. The first part of the hike was about four hours to the small village of Soraypampa. The scenery on the way was breathtaking with Mount Salkantay towering above us and waterfalls gushing past us at every turn. Luckily, we stopped regularly and were able to take in the surrounding beauty.

Our camp the first night consisted of rows of adorable, triangular cabins, surrounded by rolling hills, grazing horses, and towering glacial mountains. After getting unpacked and having a delicious lunch served by our wonderful trail crew, it was time to hike up to Humantay Lagoon. This impressive lagoon was another hour-and-a-half of uphill hiking, but OH MY GOD it was so worth it! Humantay Lagoon was one of the most picturesque places we have ever seen. Between the towering, glacier-covered mountains in the backdrop and the crystal-clear, blue-green waters of the lagoon, it is hard to think of another place with such unparalleled natural beauty. While the hike up to the lagoon was strenuous, it was great practice for day 2 of our trek over the Salkantay pass, and arguably one of the most stunning sights we witnessed on the whole trek.

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

Day: 2

            On the second day we were awoken around 5 AM by our guides who kindly offered cocoa tea to help wake us up and prepare for the elevation. After a group breakfast, we hit the trail.It took about four hours of uphill trekking to get to the top of the Salkantay pass. The entire way up we could hear the rumbling from the mountain as huge chunks of ice and snow broke off the glaciers and smashed onto the rocks below. These thunderous sounds were truly spectacular, and we recommend spending some time listening to them from the top to get the full effect.

While the views were stunning from the top of the pass, the second portion of the hike was equally as incredible. As trekkers descend the other side of the pass, they are treated to jaw-dropping views as the landscape shifts from alpine tundra to lush rainforest. Waterfalls cascading down the sides of the mountains, old moss-covered stonewalls, and grazing cows greet visitors as they descend. This was one of our favorite parts of the trek. Be careful, though, because a twisted ankle here could mean the difference between making it to Machu Picchu or having to return to Cusco. 

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

Day: 3

The third day brought us from the village of Chaullauy to Santa Teresa. This was probably the least intense day of hiking on the Salkantay route, which is good because we were already beat from the first two days! The hike was basically a decent the entire day. We passed through several family farms and were able to get fresh avocados, chocolate, and coffee to keep us going throughout the day. Eventually we made it to Santa Teresa where we headed to the local hot springs. This was not included in the price of the trek but was definitely worth it after three days of hiking!

We camped at a hostel on the third night, which had a bar and an outdoor fire pit. After some drinks and relaxation, we discovered something called Incan Tequila, which was the cheapest thing on the menu. We still don’t know exactly what it is, but we all immediately forgot about the 2 days of intense trekking ahead of us, and collectively drank like it was the end of the world. We danced around the campfire and laughed for most of the night. Other groups also doing the trek came out and joined us and we had an amazing night which turned into immense regret the next day. Don’t fall into the Incan Tequila trap like we did!!! Hiking hungover is no joke, friends (*shutters with regret*). 

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

Day: 4

Moving on… The fourth day of the trek took us to Aguas Calientes and gave us our first (distant) views of Machu Picchu. This day was a bit of a struggle for everyone, but at least we were in it together! The day consisted of jungle trekking and breathtaking views. We stopped for lunch (and naps) about two hours before reaching Aguas Calientes and spent the rest of the afternoon walking along train tracks until we reached the town. While the fourth day didn’t include as much trekking as some of the other days, getting your first views of Machu Picchu was so exciting!! Aguas Calientes is a small tourist town located close to Machu Picchu. It is cute, touristy, and super expensive, and where we spent the night before our trek up to the ancient Incan city!

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

Day: 5

Are you still with us?! Finally, the day had come! We woke up around four to start the hike to Machu Picchu.

There are two options for getting up to the top: 1) a bus (for a small fee) or 2) walking up a seemingly never-ending staircase (free, with the added bonus of bragging rights for how strong and tough you are). Guess which one we chose?

If you splurge on the bus, you get picked up in town and dropped off at the entrance to Machu Picchu. If you decide to instead send it up yourself, expect it to take between 45-90 minutes to get to the top. We know this doesn’t sound like a lot, but honestly this was one of the most difficult parts of the hike. This could have something to do with the fact that we had been walking ~20 km a day for four days already, or maybe we were still nursing our hangovers. Regardless, it was tough, but it felt like the more authentic way to see the ancient city, and we were pretty proud of ourselves afterwards. 

 Once you make it to the entrance, you have to wait in line for them to open the gates. Its best to get there early, particularly if you are one of the first groups to go into the park. We had an asshat try to cut in line and was told to leave. Don’t be an asshat. Pay attention to the time on your ticket because they will not let you enter even a minute before. Also, DON’T FORGET YOUR PASSPORT. You will not be allowed entry without, even with a ticket.

            Finally, it was time for our group to enter. We were among the first in line, so we rushed in to enjoy our first up-close views of Machu Picchu. The weather was still pretty clear at this point, so we enjoyed stunning views of the city without being super swarmed by other tourists. Our guide gave us a brief history lesson on Machu Picchu before we were free to explore the ruins on our own.

It was immediately clear to us why this ancient city is considered one of the wonders of the world. It was an entire city! The buildings were still standing, and you can really get a feel for what it was like when populated by its founders. There are still llamas (and/or alpacas, we still can’t tell the difference) grazing on the grass. Some of our favorite parts included getting a picture above the ruins by the guard tower, hiking up to the Sun Gate to where the Inca Trail enters Machu Picchu, and simply exploring all the different areas inside the citadel. We stayed and explored until the rain picked up to an uncomfortable level. Then we walked back down the stairs from whence we came, although you can also take a bus back down to Aguas Calientes.

-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-

Overall, our Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu was one of our favorite things we did in all of South America. The ease of booking, relative cost, and amazing people you meet along the way make it an amazing experience. Then, witnessing such an incredible ancient city at the end was unlike anything we could imagine! We highly recommend doing this trek!

Questions/comments/concerns? We want to hear from you!

Now, go get out there.

Summer & Jackson